BOUNCE & TOUCH - STARTERS

This section describes how to combine the Dog-Games of Bounce and Touch so that the dog learns to do a sendaway over flyball jumps, touch the target box (either by touching a "marker", or by retrieving a ball from the "ball holder" that is clipped onto the front of the Target Box), and then return over the jumps to its handler for its motivator.

It is presumed that the dog has reached at least Silver level in both Games and is used to jumping 8" flyball jumps, and happily runs touches a target box 51ft from the start/finish poles.

As with all the Dog-Games, each stage is non-competitive and is designed to help both dog and handler learn at their own pace and to their own ability. We recommend that the dog wears a well fitting harness so that the handler can hold the dog comfortably and securely before the sendaway.

See Guidelines for a full explanation of how to set up for success. Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall.

Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught the Bounce Game and/or the Touch Game. Before the dog arrives, once again prepare the training area by measuring where the poles, jumps and the 51ft marker should be, and spray paint the exact spots so that the equipment can be put in the same location for the next couple of training sessions. Also put up the plastic netting if the area is too big or not secure.

If there is no one to stand on the target box this is the time to stake it to the ground on the 51ft position (see above diagram). The sound of the iron pins being hammered will upset and stress dogs who are in the training area, therefore please make sure no dogs are nearby when there is any hammering to be done. This is the only exception in Dog-Games for any equipment being out when the dog is wandering around loose before a training session starts. Make sure that the marker is not on the box in this or subsequent training sessions until the dog is under control and ready to start the Game.

1. Allow the dog to run freely off the lead round the training area (see Where & When) so that it can explore the environment. Do not distract the dog by calling to it or giving it any commands. Allow it to relieve itself without reprimand - it is just marking the area so that it will recognise it next time and also to pass on the "news" to other dogs that it has been there.

2. The handler should only call the dog to them once it has become settled and is becoming bored with the lack of stimulation. As the dog already recognises that it is going to do a Dog-Game by the similar visual and environmental triggers it learnt while waiting to do earlier Dog-Games, don't be surprised if it is sitting expectantly at your feet waiting for the harness to be put on! This shows how strong the dog's happy associations are of the Dog-Games. However, if the dog is barking with frustration do not be tempted to start training - to do so would be to reward the dog for barking with something it really wants to do Wait for it to give up and move away before calling it to you to begin training. It might be an idea to pre-empt the barking in the next session by starting the training before it gets frustrated enough to bark. It is not only the dogs that learn by trial and error…..!

3. While the handler is putting on the dog's harness and attaching the lead to it, the trainer/helper should place the target box on the 51ft marker (if it has not already been staked down) and put the 8" high flyball jump on the jump 4 marker (ie the jump that is 15ft from the target box). Some dogs need to have the marker reintroduced on the box at this stage to help them cope with the addition of the jumps to the behavioural chain. It can be phased out again later when the dog's confidence increases. The same is true of the ball in the "ball holder".

4. The handler then walks the dog close up to the jump and sets it up in the usual manner for Touch, holding the dog by the harness's handle. He must not be tempted to manhandle the dog by pushing it into the required position, or turning it in circles in an attempt to distract the dog. These actions disorientate the dog and make it lose its sense of direction as to where it is supposed to be running. The manhandling will also frustrate the dog, as it will upset its balance whilst it is preparing to run.

5. As soon as the dog realises that the target box is in front of it, the handler should release the harness and let the dog jump over the jump and run towards the box. As with all dog training, some dogs get distracted by the use of commands, even ones they are used to, when learning a new stage of an exercise - if this is the case it is best to say nothing so that it can concentrate on the matter in hand, and introduce the command later on when the dog has really understood the whole exercise.

6. As soon as the dog has successfully completed the exercise the handler should immediately reward the dog with its motivator.
   
   
7. If the dog seems confused by the introduction of the jump, move the jump a little closer to the target box, or a little further back if the dog is turning too wide. In these early lessons, do not worry to much about placing the jump exactly on the jump 4 marker - you can gradually return the jump to the correct position as the dog begins to understand the exercise. As with all dog training, each dog learns in slightly different ways according to its needs and abilities - remember this and tailor the dog's training accordingly.
   
   
8. Because the dog now has to concentrate not only on touching the target box but also adjusting its speed, pacing and direction as it turns so that it can jump the flyball jump, some dogs need extra help and guidance from their handler.

The dog can be helped to look in the direction of the jump by the handler standing a few feet behind the jump and stepping to one side with the arm extended in the opposite direction from the turn that the dog took. For instance, if dog turns to its right off the target box, the handler should take a step to their left and put their left arm out to the side so that more of the jump is between the dog and them. When the dog reaches the centre of the lane the handler can return to the centre of the lane and encourage the dog back over the jump. This part of the Game must be thoroughly practiced to make sure the dog understands that it MUST DO THE JUMP after touching the target box and before it returns to its handler.

9. It now becomes apparent how important it is for the handler to carefully control their body movements (ie their hands, arms, shoulders, torso, head, legs, and feet) as the dog runs towards them so that the dog is not distracted and runs past a jump.

10. If the dog purposely swerves round the jump the handler should immediately turn away and not produce the motivator for the dog (just as you did in earlier mistakes with the other Games). The dog will not be too upset or distracted and will work out that it must have done something wrong, as it did not get its motivator. Wait half a minute or so and then repeat the run again, perhaps helping the dog by the handler slightly adjusting their position to help the dog even more.

11. Try to do a maximum of 5 attempts in a session so that the dog is still keen and eager to do more. Always finish a training session on a successful note and with the dog wanting to still play the game. He will then be keener and more confident the next time he enters the training area.

12. Remember to write up the dog's notes so that you can begin the next session where you left off. Also make sure to write down any training difficulties that the dog needs more work on.

13. The handler should calmly take the dog to a quiet place where it can relax and unwind, and be allowed to retain what it has learnt in its memory without any distractions. Sometimes a well-ventilated car, which does not give the dog a view of the training area, is an ideal place to let a dog relax in between training sessions.

14. Some dogs can cope with more than one training session in their first lesson, while others benefit more from being taken home and brought back another day, when they are keener to play the game again. Trust your instincts and remember - it is better to do too little and teach some more next time, than to do too much and take the dog's eagerness away for repeating the Game in the future. If you do try another session later on, consult your notes so that you can start where you left off and try to progress from there.

15. Only put the training equipment away once all the dogs have been looked after and are resting peacefully. Some dogs become anxious and unsettled when they see their exciting training environment changing as the equipment is moved and dismantled.

16. Once the dogs have had a chance to relax and unwind, and the training equipment and netting have been put away, the dogs should be allowed free time off the lead together, as they did learning Touch and Bounce. By now you will have seen the benefits of doing this and seen how relaxed the dogs are between one another and which make ideal changeover partners for Gold Bounce & Touch later on.

17. As the training progresses over the sessions, the handler can experiment on standing further away from the jump, to see whether the dog will look for and jump it on its return. Try to withdraw the amount of guidance the handler needs to give with their bodies so that the dog does not become too dependent on these extra training aids. Remember that eventually the handler will be over 51ft away from the mat and have four jumps to guide the dog over (although once the dog has come to the centre of the lane and is jumping jump number 4, it is more than likely to remain in the centre and do the rest of the jumps as well).

18. Then the second jump can be introduced and placed on jump 3 marker - some dogs need the jump closer than this to begin with so experiment and move the jump back to the marker slowly.

19. Then the poles can be introduced as well, 6ft behind jump 3, so that the dog learns to run through them as well (although by this stage in the dogs training they are so much part of the Game the dog automatically runs through them).

20. The Handler can then experiment and learn when to move to the left hand side of the runback area once the dog has crossed the finish line.

21. Once the dog is consistently doing Bounce & Touch runs over the two jumps and through the poles it is ready to take Level One certificate.

To gain a certificate at Level One the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Bounce & Touch runs. The target box is on the 51 ft mark, with flyball jumps on jump 4 and jump 3 marks, and the start/finish poles 6ft away from the jump 3 mark. The handler sends the dog through the poles, over the two jumps, it touches the target box with its paw, then the dog returns over the jumps and through the poles for its reward.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Bounce & Touch Level One and with the appropriate fees.

As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate will be posted to you.

22. Build on Level One training sessions so that gradually, over a period of time that is suitable for the dog's learning processes, the third and finally the fourth flyball jump can be added to the Bounce & Touch lane. Do not be tempted to rush through these stages - they are the building blocks and foundations of the dog's ability to understand the Game. Give the dog time to experiment and learn what is expected of it. If the lessons learnt are not "rock hard" the dog will struggle later on with the added challenge of distractions, changeovers, and the changes of environment and location.

To gain a certificate at Level Two the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Bounce &Touch runs over all four jumps.  The first jump must be 6ft from the finish poles and the other three jumps 10ft apart.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

The dog has now earned its Starters Bounce & Touch - Certificate Level Two and a Starters Bounce & Touch rosette. The dog can now progress on to Bronze Bounce & Touch. Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Bounce & Touch Level Two and with the appropriate fees. As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate and your rosette will be posted to you.

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