This section describes how a dog is trained to run round a traffic cone (or similar obstacle) by following the hand and body movements of the helper or trainer that is standing behind the cone. Over a period of time the dog builds up the confidence to run further away until it can do a sendaway to a cone that is on the 51ft (15.3m) marker. It learns to run between the poles, round the cone, back through the poles, and return to its handler for its motivator. The dog should be instantly rewarded with the motivator as soon as the handler has got hold of its harness.

TRAINING

See Guidelines for a full explanation of how to set up for success. Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall.

Training for Level One

1. Allow the dog to run freely off the lead round the training area (see Where & When) so that it can explore the environment. Do not distract the dog by calling to it, or giving it any commands or eye contact. Allow it to relieve itself without reprimand - it is just marking the area so that it will recognise it next time and also to pass on the "news" to other dogs that it has been there.

2. The handler should only call the dog to them once it has settled and is becoming bored with the lack of stimulation. As the dog already recognises that it is going to do a Dog-Game by the similar visual and environmental triggers it learnt while waiting to do Recall, don't be surprised if it is sitting expectantly at your feet waiting for the harness to be put on! This shows how strong the dog's happy associations are of the Dog-Games. However, if the dog is barking with frustration do not be tempted to start training - to do so would be to reward the dog for barking with something it really wants to do. Wait for it to give up and move away before calling it to you to begin training. It might be an idea to pre-empt the barking in the next session by starting the training before it gets frustrated enough to bark. It is not only the dogs that learn by trial and error..!
   
   
3. The handler should put the dog on the lead and stand some distance away as the helper lifts the cone over the netting and puts it on the 51ft mark. Make sure that there is plenty of room behind the cone for the helper to stand and lure the dog when the training begins.
   
   

   Figure 1	Figure 2	Figure 3

   
   
4. The handler and dog should then stand approximately 4 or 5 paces from the cone, and to one side of the lane so that they face the cone at an angle (ie with the dog closest to the netting). Meanwhile the helper or trainer should stand approximately two or three paces behind the cone. These distances are only rough guidelines - each dog is different as to how close the helper should be in relation to the cone. Trial and error (and eventually experience) will help you discover the correct positioning for the dog to feel comfortable with.
   
   
5. (Figure 1) The helper should either call the dog's name or clap their hands to get the dog's attention. They should also be leaning to one side of the cone to lure the dog in that direction, clasping their hands together to help the dog focus on one particular part of their body.
   
   
6. The handler should let the dog run towards the helper and the cone the instant that the dog is attracted to the helper's signal(s). No commands or signals need to be made by the handler at this early stage in the dog's training.
   
   
7. (Figure 2) As the dog approaches the cone the helper should move their arms, closed hands, and body slightly towards the centre of the lane to guide the dog around the cone. The action is similar to "scooping" the dog up and luring him around the cone. They should crouch down to the dog's level and keep "friendly" eye contact with the dog throughout the exercise, although some dog's are intimidated with this and prefer the helper to stand more upright.
   
   
8. (Figure 3) Then as the dog curves around the cone the helper can quietly say "yes" or "go" to indicate to the dog that it has done the right thing and can go back to the handler. The helper can also move their body towards the other side of the lane as a further guide to where the dog should be running.
   
   
9. Meanwhile, the handler should watch closely to see the exact moment when the dog has gone around the cone (ie. as is pointing down the lane towards them). They should then call the dog's name as though doing Recall. Any delay in calling the dog back to them at this point will confuse the dog and make it anxious and confused as to what to do next. However, calling the dog's name too soon will distract the dog and probably cause it not to go around the cone but turn back on its tracks and return to the handler.
   
   Be aware of how important the handler's and helper's timing is when using this method.
   
   
10. Do not be disheartened if the dog does not go around the cone but turns round and comes back the way it came. Look at it as a learning experience for the humans and try to change where the helper or the handler is standing, the commands or tones of voice used (if any), and any subtle actions that may be distracting the dog from running around the cone. There is no right or wrong way on how to teach a dog to do this exercise - trust your instincts and if you are confused just remove the cone and finish the session doing a Recall run so as to boost the dog's confidence.
    
    
11. Most dogs pick up what is expected of them very quickly - after all all they have to do is run from one person to the other and they just happen to run around the cone as well. As the session progresses gradually increase the distance between the handler and the cone until they are standing at the Jump 3 mark (ie 25ft from the cone). The dog is then ready to take the Starters Test Level One.
    
    
12. Try to keep the training sessions short and fun so that the dog is still keen and eager to do more. Always finish a training session on a successful note and with the dog wanting to still play the game. He will then be keener and more confident the next time he enters the training area.
    
    
13. Remember to write up the dog's notes so that you can begin the next session where you left off. Also make sure to write down any training difficulties that the dog needs more work on - particularly the maximum distance that the dog feels comfortable running to the cone (ie its "comfort zone").
    
    
14. The handler should calmly take the dog to a quiet place where it can relax and unwind, and be allowed to retain what it has learnt in its memory without any distractions. Sometimes a well-ventilated car, which does not give the dog a view of the training area, is an ideal place to let a dog relax in between training sessions.
    

STARTERS TEST - LEVEL ONE
To gain a certificate at Level One the dog must be able to do three correct Round runs in a session - 25ft from the traffic cone. The handler sends the dog through the poles to run up to and round the traffic cone, then the dog returns through the poles to be given its motivator by its handler. The helper is allowed to lure the dog using whatever method is effective.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Round Level One, and with the appropriate fees.

As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Games, and your certificate will be posted to you.

Training for Level Two

15. Build on Level One training sessions so that gradually, over a period of time that is suitable for the dog's learning processes, the poles can be moved back to the Jump 2 marker, Jump 1 marker, and finally their correct location - 6ft from Jump 1 marker - 51 ft from the cone. 
    
    
16. Do not be tempted to rush through these stages - they are the building blocks and foundations of the dog's ability to understand the Round Game. Give the dog time to experiment and learn what is expected of it. If the lessons learnt are not "rock hard" the dog will struggle later on with the added challenge of distractions, and the changes of environment and location.

STARTERS TEST- LEVEL TWO
To gain a certificate at Level Two the dog must be able to do three correct Round runs in a session. The handler sends the dog through the poles to run round the traffic cone 51ft away, then the dog returns through the poles to the handler for its motivator. "Luring" by the helper is permitted.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

The dog has now earned its Starters Round - Certificate Level Two and a Starters Round rosette. The dog can now progress on to Bronze Round Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Round Level Two, and with the appropriate fees. As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Games, and your certificate and rosette will be posted to you.