This section describes how a dog is trained to run round a traffic cone (or similar obstacle) by following and touching a target stick with its nose. Over a period of time the dog builds up the confidence to run further away until it can do a sendaway to a cone that is on the 51ft (15.3m) marker. It learns to run between the poles, round the cone, back through the poles, and return to its handler for its motivator. The dog should be instantly rewarded with the motivator as soon as the handler has got hold of its harness.

TRAINING

See Guidelines for a full explanation of how to set up for success. Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall.

Training for Level One

1. Allow the dog to run freely off the lead round the training area (see Where & When) so that it can explore the environment. Do not distract the dog by calling to it, or giving it any commands or eye contact. Allow it to relieve itself without reprimand - it is just marking the area so that it will recognise it next time and also to pass on the "news" to other dogs that it has been there.

2. The handler should only call the dog to them once it has settled and is becoming bored with the lack of stimulation. As the dog already recognises that it is going to do a Dog-Game by the similar visual and environmental triggers it learnt while waiting to do Recall, don't be surprised if it is sitting expectantly at your feet waiting for the harness to be put on! This shows how strong the dog's happy associations are of the Dog-Games. However, if the dog is barking with frustration do not be tempted to start training - to do so would be to reward the dog for barking with something it really wants to do. Wait for it to give up and move away before calling it to you to begin training. It might be an idea to pre-empt the barking in the next session by starting the training before it gets frustrated enough to bark. It is not only the dogs that learn by trial and error..!

3. The helper/trainer should stand on the 51ft marker with the dog facing it and hold the target stick to one side or the other of the dog - do not bring the traffic cone into the training area at this point. As soon as the dog turns its head towards the end of the stick the handler Click & Treats (CT) the dog or the helper says "Yes!" in a quiet but happy manner. The helper can then move the stick to a different position (perhaps the other side of the dog's head) and once again the handler can CT (or the helper praises the dog) when the dog turns its head towards the stick. If the dog seems confused as to what it is being asked to do, try putting a piece of food (eg a bit of sausage, cheese, or meat spread) on the end of the stick for the dog to touch and take the food off.
   
   Soon the handler can raise the criteria by only CT'ing when the dog actually puts its NOSE ON THE END of the target stick (weaning the dog off the food lure if it has been used). Do not be tempted to move the stick too far from the dog - some dogs like it to be moved a lot so that they can chase the tip and touch it, while others prefer a less stressful introduction to the training aid. Experiment and find what suits your dog best. Finish the session while the dog is still very keen to touch the end of the target stick. Allow the dog to have some quiet time to itself so that it can mull over what it has just done.
   

4. In the second session (which can either be after other dogs have had their turn, or on another day) return to exactly the same spot with the dog and helper facing each other, and the handler standing calmly nearby with the clicker and the treats (if they are being used). Watch to see whether the dog remembers and understands what to do when the helper shows the target stick to the dog - does it automatically walk towards the stick and touch the end of it with its nose, or not? If not, consolidate the dog's learning by doing further sessions of CT when the dog puts its nose on the end of the stick until the dog understands what is being asked of it. The helper must not be tempted to move the stick towards the dog - they must be patient and wait for the dog to come to the stick! Some dogs (especially sight hounds) find it very difficult to work or concentrate while standing still, and so the helper needs to calmly move around so that the dog is moving in order to reach the stick.
   
   However, if the dog happily runs towards the end of the stick and makes a conscious effort to follow the end of it with its nose, you can progress on to the next stage of the training.

5. Place the large traffic cone on the spray painted mark (ie 51ft from the start/finish line of the training lane). The cone will continue to be put in the exact same spot for every session until the dog progresses on to Round Bronze.
   

6. The helper stands behind the cone and lures the dog with the end of the target stick - the handler CT's the moment the dog follows the target stick round the cone so that the dog runs back to them for its motivator/treat. Over this and subsequent sessions the handler and dog can gradually increase the distance between their start point and the traffic cone, using the start/finish poles to mark where they are sending the dog from.
   
   Remember that the cone always stays in exactly the same position, it is the handler and dog who move backwards to increase the distance.
   
   
7. If the dog suddenly seems to loose confidence and seems upset at leaving the handler, make a mental (and later on physical) note of the exact position that this occurred. This is the maximum distance of the dog's "comfort zone" from its handler and it feels insecure at doing any tasks over this particular distance. Each dog has a "comfort zone" (although some overconfident dogs seem to have extended this distance into miles rather than feet!) and this exercise helps us find out what that distance is for each of our dogs. In order to build up the dog's confidence, and later on speed, reduce the distance between handler and cone to a more acceptable level for the dog. Over a period of sessions gradually increase the distance.
   
   
8. As the distance increases and the dog becomes more active it may seem an appropriate moment to raise the value of the motivator by changing to a different type of reward, such as chasing a ball (thrown in the opposite direction to the training lane) or a game of tugger with a Grabbit or Raggit. These higher value rewards help the dog to motivate itself into running further away in order to run round the cone, and also overcomes its reservations of running outside its "comfort zone".
   
   
9. Try to fade out the use of the target stick and clicker as the dog begins to understand the concept of the Game. If, however, the dog has any difficulty or loses confidence reintroduce either or both training aids to help it overcome these problems - then fade them out at a later session. Experiment to see whether you can introduce a visual body movement or signal that triggers the dog to go to the traffic cone (such as pointing to it with the hand nearest the dog - if you use the other hand the dog will be unable to see the movement or the arm's silhouette). Only introduce a verbal command once the dog is consistently doing the Round Run correctly.
   
   
10. Try to keep the training sessions short and fun so that the dog is still keen and eager to do more. Always finish a training session on a successful note and with the dog wanting to still play the game. He will then be keener and more confident the next time he enters the training area.
    
    
11. Remember to write up the dog's notes so that you can begin the next session where you left off. Also make sure to write down any training difficulties that the dog needs more work on - particularly the maximum distance that the dog feels comfortable running to the cone (ie its "comfort zone").
    
    
12. The handler should calmly take the dog to a quiet place where it can relax and unwind, and be allowed to retain what it has learnt in its memory without any distractions. Sometimes a well-ventilated car, which does not give the dog a view of the training area, is an ideal place to let a dog relax in between training sessions.
    
    
13. Over a period of time the poles can be moved further back until they are 25ft from the cone. The dog is then ready to take the Starters Test Level One.

STARTERS TEST - LEVEL ONE
To gain a certificate at Level One the dog must be able to do three correct Round runs 25ft from the traffic cone in the one session.  The handler sends the dog through the poles to run up to and round the traffic cone, then the dog returns through the poles to be given its motivator by its handler. The use of the target stick by the helper standing behind the cone is allowed.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Round Level One, and with the appropriate fees.

As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Games, and your certificate will be posted to you.

Training for Level Two

14. Build on Level One training sessions so that gradually, over a period of time that is suitable for the dog's learning processes, the poles can be moved back to the Jump 2 marker, Jump 1 marker, and finally their correct location - 6ft from Jump 1 marker - 51 ft from the cone.
     
15. Do not be tempted to rush through these stages - they are the building blocks and foundations of the dog's ability to understand the Round Game. Give the dog time to experiment and learn what is expected of it. If the lessons learnt are not "rock hard" the dog will struggle later on with the added challenge of distractions, and the changes of environment and location.

STARTERS TEST- LEVEL TWO
To gain a certificate at Level Two the dog must be able to do three correct Round runs in a session. The handler sends the dog through the poles to run round the traffic cone 51ft away, then the dog returns through the poles to the handler for its motivator. The use of the target stick to lure the dog around the cone is allowed.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

The dog has now earned its Starters Round - Certificate Level Two and a Starters Round rosette. The dog can now progress on to Bronze Round Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Round Level Two, and with the appropriate fees. As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Games, and your certificate and rosette will be posted to you.