TOUCH - STARTERS

"BALL HOLDER METHOD"

TRAINING

See Guidelines for a full explanation of how to set up for success. Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall and Hand.

Before the dog arrives, prepare the training area by measuring where the poles, jumps and the 51ft marker should be, and spray paint the exact spots so that the equipment can be put in the same location for the next couple of training sessions. Also put up the plastic netting if the training area is too big or not secure.

SAFETY WARNING - The target box must either be staked down (see Touch Equipment Needed) or have an adult standing on the crossbar behind the ramp, so that the box does not move or twist when the dog touches it.

If there is no one to stand on the target box this is the time to stake it to the ground on the 51ft position (see above diagram). The sound of the iron pins being hammered will upset and stress dogs who are in the training area, therefore please make sure no dogs are nearby when there is any hammering to be done. This is the only exception in Dog-Games for any equipment being out when the dog is wandering around loose before a training session starts.

Place the poles, balls, and motivators outside the netting (out of the dog's reach) so that they can be brought in as and when they are needed.

Training for Level One

This is a progression on from the Dog-Game Hand, where the dog retrieved a ball from a black rubber car mat and brought it back to the handler's hand.

  1. Begin the first training session by doing an ordinary Hand run (from the Jump 4 (15ft) mark rather than the whole distance), just to remind the dog what it was taught in the past. The helper or trainer should place the black rubber car mat on the 51ft (15.3m) mark, stand slightly back and show the ball to the dog whilst giving it eye contact. When the dog is alert and watching, the helper should quietly place the ball on the mat and wait for the handler to send the dog. Once the dog has brought the ball back to the handler it should be rewarded with its motivator.

  2. Whilst the handler and dog are busy playing with the motivator and are not aware of what is happening at the other end of the training lane, the helper should remove the mat and replace it with the Target Box. Clip the "ball holder" to the Target Box making sure that it is not placed too high off the ground in these early stages of training the dog - the dog's head height is usually about right.

  3. The helper should then "present" another ball to the dog, waiting for it to notice what is in their hands. As soon as the dog is focused the helper should place the ball in the holder and keep looking at the ball so as to draw the dog's attention it as it runs up to them. Make sure that the box is secure by having the helper stand on the base back board of the Target Box so that it will not move as the dog runs up to it and puts its weight against it. Although it is very tempting to do so, the helper should try not to make eye contact with the dog or speak to it as this may distract it and cause it to loose its concentration.

  4. Usually the dog is so used to playing Hand (ie has gained Hand Silver) that the introduction of the Target Box to the training session is not a problem. If the dog is hesitant or worried about the ball being in the "ball holder", the helper can get the ball out of the hole, show it to the dog, then return it so that the dog can get it out. This usually does the trick and the dog happily takes it back to the handler for its reward.

  5. Once the dog is happy to retrieve the ball from the Target Box the distance can gradually be increased until it can do a retrieve over 25ft to the box, pick up the ball, then return to the handler through the poles for its motivator.

  6. If the dog suddenly seems to loose confidence and seems upset at leaving the handler, make a mental (and later on physical) note of the exact position that this occurred. This is the maximum distance of the dog's "comfort zone" from its handler and it feels insecure at doing any tasks over this particular distance. Each dog has a "comfort zone" (although some overconfident dogs seem to have extended this distance into miles rather than feet!) and this exercise helps us find out what that distance is for each of our dogs. In order to build up the dogs confidence, and later on speed, reduce the distance between handler and target box to a more acceptable level for the dog. Over a period of sessions gradually increase the distance.

  7. As the distance increases and the dog becomes more active it may seem an appropriate moment to raise the value of the motivator by changing to a different type of reward, such as throwing the ball for the dog to chase once the dog has put it in the handler's hand (thrown in the opposite direction to the training lane) or a game of tugger with a Grabbit or Raggit. These higher value rewards help the dog to motivate itself into running further away in order to touch the target box, and also overcomes its reservations of running outside its "comfort zone".

  8. Over a period of time the poles can be moved further back - to Jump 4 marker, then Jump 3 marker (ie 25ft from the target box). The dog is then ready to take the Starters Test Level One.
STARTERS TEST - LEVEL ONE
To gain a certificate at Level One the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Touch runs 25ft from the target box. The handler sends the dog through the poles to run up and touch the target box while retrieving the ball, then the dog returns through the poles to the handler for its motivator in exchange for the ball.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

The dog has now earned its Starters Touch Certificate Level One.

The dog can now progress to Level Two.

Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Touch Level One and with the appropriate fees.

As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate will be posted to you.

Training for Level Two
The distance that the dog is sent away to the target box is increased so that eventually it is able to do a complete Touch run - ie run through the start/finish poles up the 51ft long lane, touch the target box while retrieving the ball from the "ball holder", then run back through the finish poles to be given its motivator by its handler.
STARTERS TEST- LEVEL TWO
To gain a certificate at Level Two the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Touch runs. The handler sends the dog through the poles to run up and touch the target box while retrieving the ball from the "ball holder", then the dog returns through the poles and exchanges the ball for its motivator.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

The dog has now earned its Starters Touch Certificate Level Two and a Starters Touch rosette.

The dog can now progress on to Bronze Touch

Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Touch Level One and with the appropriate fees.

As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate and rosette will be posted to you.

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