TOUCH - STARTERS
"BALL HOLDER METHOD"
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TRAINING
See Guidelines for a full explanation of how to set up for success. Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall and Hand.
Before the dog arrives, prepare the training area by measuring where the poles, jumps and the 51ft marker should be, and spray paint the exact spots so that the equipment can be put in the same location for the next couple of training sessions. Also put up the plastic netting if the training area is too big or not secure.
| SAFETY WARNING - The target box must either be staked down (see Touch Equipment Needed) or have an adult standing on the crossbar behind the ramp, so that the box does not move or twist when the dog touches it. |
If there is no one to stand on the target box this is the time to stake it to the ground on the 51ft position (see above diagram). The sound of the iron pins being hammered will upset and stress dogs who are in the training area, therefore please make sure no dogs are nearby when there is any hammering to be done. This is the only exception in Dog-Games for any equipment being out when the dog is wandering around loose before a training session starts.
Place the poles, balls, and motivators outside the netting (out of the dog's reach) so that they can be brought in as and when they are needed.
Training for Level One
- Begin the first training session by doing an ordinary Hand run
(from the Jump 4 (15ft) mark rather than the whole distance), just
to remind the dog what it was taught in the past. The helper or
trainer should place the black rubber car mat
on the 51ft (15.3m) mark, stand slightly back and show the ball to
the dog whilst giving it eye contact. When the dog is alert and
watching, the helper should quietly place the ball on the mat and
wait for the handler to send the dog. Once the dog has brought the
ball back to the handler it should be rewarded with its motivator.
- Whilst the handler and dog are busy playing with the motivator
and are not aware of what is happening at the other end of the
training lane, the helper should remove the mat and replace it with
the Target Box. Clip the "ball holder" to the Target Box making
sure that it is not placed too high off the ground in these early
stages of training the dog - the dog's head height is usually about
right.
- The helper should then "present" another ball to the dog,
waiting for it to notice what is in their hands. As soon as the dog
is focused the helper should place the ball in the holder and keep
looking at the ball so as to draw the dog's attention it as it runs
up to them. Make sure that the box is secure by having the helper
stand on the base back board of the Target Box so that it will not
move as the dog runs up to it and puts its weight against it.
Although it is very tempting to do so, the helper should try not to
make eye contact with the dog or speak to it as this may distract
it and cause it to loose its concentration.
- Usually the dog is so used to playing Hand (ie has gained Hand Silver) that the introduction of the
Target Box to the training session is not a problem. If the dog is
hesitant or worried about the ball being in the "ball holder", the
helper can get the ball out of the hole, show it to the dog, then
return it so that the dog can get it out. This usually does the
trick and the dog happily takes it back to the handler for its
reward.
- Once the dog is happy to retrieve the ball from the Target Box
the distance can gradually be increased until it can do a retrieve
over 25ft to the box, pick up the ball, then return to the handler
through the poles for its motivator.
- If the dog suddenly seems to loose confidence and seems upset
at leaving the handler, make a mental (and later on physical) note
of the exact position that this occurred. This is the maximum
distance of the dog's "comfort zone" from its handler and it feels
insecure at doing any tasks over this particular distance. Each dog
has a "comfort zone" (although some overconfident dogs seem to have
extended this distance into miles rather than feet!) and this
exercise helps us find out what that distance is for each of our
dogs. In order to build up the dogs confidence, and later on speed,
reduce the distance between handler and target box to a more
acceptable level for the dog. Over a period of sessions gradually
increase the distance.
- As the distance increases and the dog becomes more active it
may seem an appropriate moment to raise the
value of the motivator by changing to a different type of
reward, such as throwing the ball for the dog to chase once the dog
has put it in the handler's hand (thrown in the opposite direction
to the training lane) or a game of tugger with a Grabbit or Raggit.
These higher value rewards help the dog to
motivate itself into running further away in order to touch the
target box, and also overcomes its reservations of running outside
its "comfort zone".
- Over a period of time the poles can be moved further back - to
Jump 4 marker, then Jump 3 marker (ie 25ft from the target box).
The dog is then ready to take the Starters Test Level One.
To gain a certificate at Level One the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Touch runs 25ft from the target box. The handler sends the dog through the poles to run up and touch the target box while retrieving the ball, then the dog returns through the poles to the handler for its motivator in exchange for the ball.
If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.
The dog has now earned its Starters Touch Certificate Level One.
The dog can now progress to Level Two.
Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Touch Level One and with the appropriate fees.
As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate will be posted to you.
Training for Level Two- Build on Level One training sessions so that gradually, over a
period of time that is suitable for the dog's learning processes,
the poles can be moved back to the Jump 2 marker, Jump 1 marker,
and finally their correct location - 6ft from Jump 1 marker. The
handler can also experiment by releasing the dog further away from
the start line so that the dog is running flat out as it passes
over the start line - this will come in useful for competitions
later on.
- Do not be tempted to rush through these stages - they are the building blocks and foundations of the dog's ability to understand the Touch Game. Give the dog time to experiment and learn what is expected of it. If the lessons learnt are not "rock hard" the dog will struggle later on with the added challenge of distractions, and the changes of environment and location.
To gain a certificate at Level Two the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Touch runs. The handler sends the dog through the poles to run up and touch the target box while retrieving the ball from the "ball holder", then the dog returns through the poles and exchanges the ball for its motivator.
If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.
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The dog has now earned its Starters Touch Certificate Level Two and a Starters Touch rosette. The dog can now progress on to Bronze Touch Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Touch Level One and with the appropriate fees. As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate and rosette will be posted to you. |
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