TRAINING

See Guidelines for a full explanation of how to set up for success. Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall.

Training a dog to touch a marker with its paw
(See Touch Equipment Needed for suggestions about types of markers)
To begin with the dog is taught to touch a marker with its paw. The marker is placed in a variety of positionsso that the dog begins to understand that wherever the marker is put it will be rewarded for touching it with its paw.

As with all Dog-Games training, the dog is taught using kind positive methods so that it has time to work out for itself how to get its motivator - this is done by using a backward chaining technique. The dog learns the end of the exercise first - if it touches the marker with its paw it will be instantly rewarded. Gradually, over a period of time, the marker is placed in different positions and in different training locations. The dog begins to understand that no matter where the marker is placed it must go to it, touch it with its paw, and then return to its handler for its reward. Through trial and error the dog realises that the only way to earn its motivator is to touch the marker.

Before you begin to train the dog you must decide how you are going to signal to your dog that it has done something right - in the first instance touch the marker on the floor with its paw.

Many people use their voices to signal their approval (such as saying, "Yes", "Good boy/girl/dog/its name", "Good", "OK" or even "What a good dog". However, as is explained in Dog's dictionary,the problem with using words is how long they take to say in response to a dog doing something (research has shown that when dogs are learning something new they have difficulty associating the praise with anything they have done more than one second before). Therefore, the handler's timing must be very accurate otherwise the dog will become confused about what it is being praised for. As well as having to consistently say the same word each time, another disadvantage of using words is that the dog can pick up the human's emotions and will become anxious or put off from doing the exercise due to the stress in the handler's voice. This is where the clicker comes in so useful, as it is an unemotional sound that can be heard in an instant rather than getting the human brain to decide what words to say and at what time (clickers are particularly useful for Group B type dogs - see Different Ways of Learning). If you are unable to be trained to use a clicker or are unwilling to use one, try to use a sound (such as making a clicking sound in your mouth) instead. First train your dog that whenever it hears the clicking noise that it will instantly be given its motivator. Once the dog is turning round and looking at you for the motivator as soon as it hears the clicking sound, you are ready to begin the training steps outlined below.

CT means "Click, Treat" (ie make the click sound the moment the dog touches the marker, then give the dog its motivator/treat as quickly as possible).

1. Start off the initial training sessions at home, when you are sitting in front of the television, or listening to the radio, so that you have something to occupy your mind while you wait for the dog to touch the marker on the floor. Do these sessions just before you plan to walk your dog, or take it to play with other dogs, or before you prepare and give it its meal (if it really enjoys its food) - in fact any life reward that the dog really enjoys doing and will remember happened soon after these sessions.

2. Hide the motivator behind your back, underneath you, in a bumbag that you wear all the time, or in a pocket, so that the dog does not know you have it near at hand.

3. Allow the dog to wander round the room watching closely to see if it goes near or even touches the marker. Try not to lure or entice the dog by talking to it - instead try to be patient (watch the TV!) and perhaps move the marker to another location near the dog to attract its attention or curiosity.

4. As soon as the dog touches the marker with its paw - CT. Show your pleasure by smiling a big smile and either play with the motivator (if it is a interactive toy such as a Raggit or a Grabbit) or allow it to take a treat from a treat box. Encourage the dog to return to you as quickly as it can for this reward - just as you will when the dog is running back to you in the Dog-Games lane. Do not reward the dog (even with your voice and/or attention) for touching the marker with its mouth or nose - only when it uses its paw.

5. Repeat "Touch = CT" a maximum of four or five times in a session, depending on the dog's eagerness to do the exercise once again. Experiment to see whether you can introduce a visual body movement or signal that triggers the dog to go to the marker (such as pointing to it with the hand closest to the dog - if you use the other hand the dog will be unable to see the movement or the arm's silhouette). Do not, as yet introduce a verbal command - see 13.

6. As soon as the session is finished, get up and give the dog its life reward eg pick up its lead and take it for a run in the park, or feed it its meal etc. However, do not distract it too much by talking to it - let it think about what it has just done and learnt - this is called latent learning.

7. To aid understanding and consistency, Group A and C dogs now need to generalise the exercise by the handler moving both themselves and the marker to a new location in the room, while Group D dogs need to be trained in the one location in a session and then start the next session in a slightly different location in the room. This movement of location is very important to dogs as they are very aware of their environment (see Environmental Photos) and need to understand that although the marker and the handler may move slightly, they will be rewarded for touching the marker. We are raising the criteria of what we want the dog to learn.

8. Each dog progresses at a different pace and in different stages. Some dogs need to take very very small steps when raising the criteria, while other dogs make huge leaps of understanding (which is not always a good thing for the dog, particularly Group A dogs).
   
   
9. Over a period of sessions move the marker to different areas on the floor, then with the marker half on the floor and half on the wall/furniture/door. Gradually stick the marker further off the floor but do not over-face the dog by trying to put it too high (ie above it's head), or move it higher too quickly. By this point the game can be played in various locations within the house and garden and the dog will begin to do tricks like shut doors and drawers by pressing the marker that is stuck on these objects.
   
   
10. Try to fade out the use of the clicker as soon as possible, once the dog has grasped the concept of the exercise. Dogs can become very dependent on the use of this training aid (as can the handlers) if it is used to mark the behaviour for too long a period of the dog's training regime. It can always be reintroduced should the need arise, such as transferring the marker to the target box and the introduction of distraction dogs in Silver and Gold etc.
    

11. Throughout all this early training experiment by rewarding the dog with different life rewards or motivators. This will motivate the dog even more, helping it to build strong happy associations with touching the marker and making it very keen to touch the marker whenever it sees it. Some dogs like their motivators to be varied while others become confused and prefer one particular reward - watch the dog's reactions to varied rewards, learn which method of reward it prefers, and tailor the training to the dog's preferences.

12. As the dog's eagerness to play Touch increases and the training criteria rises, the number of repetitions can be increased in a training session. Some dogs can cope with 3 or 4 goes (being rewarded with its motivator every time it does it successfully) while other dogs that have the working drive, concentration, and need to do 5 or 6 goes to feel fulfilled. As with all dog training, finish a training session before the dog gets bored, while it is still doing it correctly, and while it still wants to play some more.

13. Do not be tempted to introduce a verbal queue/command until the dog is thoroughly at home touching the marker - I find the word "touch" easy to remember as this is exactly what the dog is doing. However, "press", "box", and "on it" are equally suitable. Just remember that whichever word you choose you must not change it - the dog must always associate the sound of this word with the action it is being trained to do. Begin by introducing the command as the dog is touching the marker. Gradually say the command earlier and earlier in the chain until the dog hears the command as it begins it run to the marker. The dog will then have strong associations with the command and what it is doing at the time.

Training for Level One

The dog should now be used to touching the marker in a variety of locations and with it being stuck to all sorts of objects and levels off the ground (although it should not be asked to touch a marker higher than its head). The marker can now be transferred to the target box . The dog is gradually taught to run to it over longer distances until it can do a sendaway over 25ft to the box, touch the marker, then return to its handler through the poles for its motivator.

Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall. Before the dog arrives, once again prepare the training area by measuring where the poles, jumps and the 51ft marker should be, and spray paint the exact spots so that the equipment can be put in the same location for the next couple of training sessions. Also put up the plastic netting if the training area is too big or not secure.

If there is no one to stand on the target box this is the time to stake it to the ground on the 51ft position (see above diagram). The sound of the iron pins being hammered will upset and stress dogs who are in the training area, therefore please make sure no dogs are nearby when there is any hammering to be done. This is the only exception in Dog-Games for any equipment being out when the dog is wandering around loose before a training session starts. Make sure that the marker is not on the box in this or subsequent training sessions until the dog is under control and ready to start the Game.

Place the marker, poles, clicker (if the dog is used to and/or needs it) and motivators outside the netting (out of the dog's reach) so that they can be brought in as and when they are needed.

14. Allow the dog to run freely off the lead round the training area (see Where & When) so that it can explore the environment. Do not distract the dog by calling to it or giving it any commands. Allow it to relieve itself without reprimand - it is just marking the area so that it will recognise it next time and also to pass on the "news" to other dogs that it has been there.

15. The handler should only call the dog to them once it has become settled and is becoming bored with the lack of stimulation. As the dog already recognises that it is going to do a Dog-Game by the similar visual and environmental triggers it learnt while waiting to do Recall, don't be surprised if it is sitting expectantly at your feet waiting for the harness to be put on! This shows how strong the dog's happy associations are of the Dog-Games. However, if the dog is barking with frustration do not be tempted to start training - to do so would be to reward the dog for barking with something it really wants to do. Wait for it to give up and move away before calling it to you to begin training. It might be an idea to pre-empt the barking in the next session by starting the training before it gets frustrated enough to bark. It is not only the dogs that learn by trial and error! Set the dog up about 6ft from the target box.

16. Place the marker (which the dog has been trained with) near the center bottom edge of the box. Make sure that the dog sees the marker being put on the box so that it can recognises it and remembers what it has to do. Be careful not to distract or disorientate the dog by turning it away from the marker on the box - let it have an uninterrupted view and be able to concentrate.
    
    
17. As quickly as possible the handler should let go of the dog's harness, giving the usual visual and vocal commands that the dog is well acquainted with when touching the marker. If the dog becomes anxious or confused move closer to the box or reposition the marker to attract the dog's attention. CT the moment the dog touches the marker and reward the dog instantly with its motivator.
    
    
18. Repeat stage 17 a few more times and then finish the session while the dog is still very keen to touch the marker on the box. Try to keep the training sessions short and fun so that the dog is still keen and eager to do more. Always finish a training session on a successful note and with the dog wanting to still play the game. He will then be keener and more confident the next time he enters the training area.
    
    
19. The handler should calmly take the dog to a quiet place where it can relax and unwind, and be allowed to retain what it has learnt in its memory without any distractions. Sometimes a well-ventilated car, which does not give the dog a view of the training area, is an ideal place to let a dog relax in between training sessions.
    
    
20. Some dogs can cope with more than one training session in their first lesson, while others benefit more from being taken home and brought back another day, when they are keener to play the game again. Trust your instincts and remember - it is better to do too little and teach some more next time, than to do too much and take the dog's eagerness away for repeating the Game in the future. If you do try another session later on, consult your notes so that you can start where you left off and try to progress from there.
    
    
21. Remember to write up the dog's notes so that you can begin the next session where you left off. Also make sure to write down any training difficulties that the dog needs more work on - particularly the maximum distance that the dog feels comfortable running to the target box (ie its "comfort zone").
    
    
22. Only put the training equipment away once all the dogs have been looked after and are resting peacefully. Some dogs become anxious and unsettled when they see their exciting training environment changing as the equipment is moved and dismantled.
    
    
23. Once the dogs have had a chance to relax and unwind, and the training equipment and netting have been put away, the dogs should be allowed free time off the lead together. This is best done by a few handlers and dogs going together for a gentle stroll in an area with enough space for the dogs to move away or approach each other as they need. It is important that the humans do not call their dogs or give commands while this canine interaction is going on. The dogs need to relax and be themselves without the added pressure of listening out for their handler's voice as well. It is also important that no toys are played with when exercising the dogs, as this could over excite them or start aggressive behaviour between certain dogs over who should have the toy. The handlers and trainer will begin to notice which dogs are comfortable and friendly with one another and which prefer to keep their distance. This will help them decide later on which dogs to choose when doing changeovers in Touch Gold.
    
    
24. In the second session (which can either be after other dogs have had their turn, or on another day) return to exactly the same spot with the box and dog in the same positions.
    
    
25. Carefully experiment to see where the marker is most suitable for the dog to touch. If the dog naturally turns to its left the marker should be placed on the left side of the box to give the dog more room to use its legs as it touches and turns back to the handler (rather like a swimmer's turn). If the dog turns to its right put the marker to the dog's right of the box. Small dogs need the marker to be lower down while larger dogs prefer the marker further up the ramp.
    

    Dog turns to it's left	Dog turns to it's right	Large dog turns to it's left	Small dog turns either way

    
    
26. Over this and subsequent sessions the handler and dog can gradually increase the distance between their start point and the target box, using the start/finish poles to mark where they are sending the dog from. Remember that the target box is always kept in this same position - it is the dog and handler that move further away to increase the distance in-between.
    
    
27. If the dog suddenly seems to loose confidence and seems upset at leaving the handler, make a mental (and later on physical) note of the exact position that this occurred. This is the maximum distance of the dog's "comfort zone" from its handler and it feels insecure at doing any tasks over this particular distance. Each dog has a "comfort zone" (although some overconfident dogs seem to have extended this distance into miles rather than feet!) and this exercise helps us find out what that distance is for each of our dogs. In order to build up the dogs confidence, and later on speed, reduce the distance between handler and target box to a more acceptable level for the dog. Over a period of sessions gradually increase the distance.
    
    
28. As the distance increases and the dog becomes more active it may seem an appropriate moment to raise the value of the motivator by changing to a different type of reward, such as chasing a ball (thrown in the opposite direction to the training lane) or a game of tugger with a Grabbit or Raggit. These higher value rewards help the dog to motivate itself into running further away in order to touch the target box, and also overcomes its reservations of running outside its "comfort zone".
    
    
29. If the clicker has been reintroduce to help the dog cope with a new location etc, try to fade out its use as the dog begins to understand the concept of the Game. If, however, the dog has any difficulty or loses confidence reintroduce the clicker to help it overcome these problems - then fade them out at a later session.
    
    
30. Over a period of time the poles can be moved further back - to Jump 4 marker, then Jump 3 marker (ie 25ft from the target box). The dog is then ready to take the Starters Test Level One.
    

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Touch Level One and with the appropriate fees.

As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate will be posted to you.

31. Build on Level One training sessions so that gradually, over a period of time that is suitable for the dog's learning processes, the poles can be moved back to the Jump 2 marker, Jump 1 marker, and finally their correct location - 6ft from Jump 1 marker. The handler can also experiment by releasing the dog further away from the start line so that the dog is running flat out as it passes over the start line - this will come in useful for competitions later on.

32. Do not be tempted to rush through these stages - they are the building blocks and foundations of the dog's ability to understand the Touch Game. Give the dog time to experiment and learn what is expected of it. If the lessons learnt are not "rock hard" the dog will struggle later on with the added challenge of distractions, and the changes of environment and location. Some dogs need to have the marker on the box for a long time before they can cope without it, others work with more enthusiasm and speed once it has been removed and they no longer have to be as accurate as to where they place their paw.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

The dog has now earned its Starters Touch Certificate Level Two and a Starters Touch rosette. The dog can now progress on to Bronze Touch Please send in your Dog-Games Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Touch Level One and with the appropriate fees. As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games and your certificate and rosette will be posted to you.